When Should You Start Using Retinol?

5 minutes
March 08, 2024

Knowing all the benefits of using retinol (increased collagen production, decreased dark spots, etcetera), adding it to your regular skincare routine is a no-brainer. The only question is when. 

Signs it’s time to start using retinol

The general recommendation for retinol is to begin using it in your mid-to-late 20s. That’s the age at which your natural collagen and elastin production starts to slow down, so it makes sense to try to make up the difference by incorporating an ingredient proven to boost those levels. However, some additional factors beyond your age can also influence your readiness for retinol.

You have thin skin

No, not emotionally. We mean skin that’s on the delicate side and not as thick as you might like. Without a collagen cushion to plump it up, thin skin tends to feature fine lines and wrinkles prominently. Luckily, retinol helps skin make collagen, which can fill out fine lines.

You’ve “taken the sun” in a major way

Perhaps youthful follies meant you bypassed applying SPF daily (no judgments). Or maybe your job meant spending hours and hours in the direct sun (working as a lifeguard, for example). Or your love of outdoor sports meant lots of perspiration and not a lot of sunscreen reapplication. Whatever the reason, excessive sun damage happens. Retinol is the remedy.

You have firsthand experience with cystic acne

If you had severe breakouts as a teen or in your early 20s, you may be left with lingering evidence (in the form of indentations and other textural issues) long after the acne has gone away. Over time, consistent retinol application can help skin make enough extra collagen to soften the look of indents and create a more even skin surface.

Top tips for becoming a retinol regular

Once you’re ready, here’s how to incorporate retinol into your skincare regimen to get the biggest bang for your buck.

Pace yourself

When it comes to retinol, it is a walk-before-you-run situation. The ingredient is highly stimulating to the skin, so it can often trigger irritation and redness when first applied. Therefore, you don’t want to dive in and begin by applying the maximum strength of retinol every night of the week. That will most certainly result in inflammation, which counteracts all of the collagen-building benefits that retinol provides. Instead, begin with a low dose one night a week and see how your skin reacts. You can gradually build up to a stronger amount applied more frequently as your skin’s tolerance develops.

Look for soothing supporting players

Yes, retinol can be irritating. But you don’t have to sit back and just accept it. Calming, soothing ingredients like ferulic acid, bakuchiol, and rambutan can help buffer the irritating effects of retinol when combined in the same formulation. As a result, you can get retinol’s benefits while lessening the chance of inflammation. You’ll find this trio in our new Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Perfectly Dosed Retinol Universal 0.2% and Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Perfectly Dosed Retinol Extra Strength 0.5% treatment pads, as well as in the entire Advanced Retinol + Ferulic collection.


Embrace SPF

UV rays destroy collagen; retinol builds collagen. If you use retinol without protecting the collagen you already have, you’re likely to net out at zero skin improvement. Table stakes are a minimum SPF of 30 applied daily. Our Dr. Dennis Gross All-Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30 is an oil-free mineral formulation packed with antioxidants and easy to layer under makeup.

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Written By

Ben Gentzler

Ben Gentzler has worked in the beauty industry for 17 years — 10 of which were spent in clinical skincare. He is a licensed esthetician with a passion for leading professional education on cutting edge treatments at top spas around the world and for training on the science of skin. Ben has trained directly with Dr. Dennis Gross, learning about the state of the art in skincare and working with his clients to help them achieve their best skin.

Read More from Ben Gentzler

Written By

Ben Gentzler

Ben Gentzler has worked in the beauty industry for 17 years — 10 of which were spent in clinical skincare. He is a licensed esthetician with a passion for leading professional education on cutting edge treatments at top spas around the world and for training on the science of skin. Ben has trained directly with Dr. Dennis Gross, learning about the state of the art in skincare and working with his clients to help them achieve their best skin.

Read More from Ben Gentzler

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