Retinol vs Tretinoin: How To Choose The Right Solution

We’re all about a quick skin fix (which is just one reason our bestselling Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Peels deliver instant results, as well as improvements over time). But not everything in skincare works best with a full-throttle, no-holds-barred approach. Number one among these is vitamin A. It’s one of the only ingredients that’s been endlessly proven to deliver quantifiable, consistent skin improvements so it’s worth incorporating into your daily routine. But only if you do it the right way.

How retinol and tretinoin are similar

Both ingredients ultimately spur the production of collagen (for fewer fine lines and wrinkles) and slow the formation of melanin (diminishing dark spots). They also encourage cellular turnover and help reduce acne formation. That’s the good news. Retinol and tretinoin (you’re probably most familiar with the brand Retin-A) can also make skin red, irritated, and sensitive to the sun (PSA: Always wear your SPF, no matter what!). They’re also not for anyone pregnant or breastfeeding. 

How retinol and tretinoin are different

Tretinoin has no chill. It comes at skin-hard. Prescription forms of topical vitamin A can be up to 20 times stronger than your friendly, neighborhood retinol. Yes, both ingredients can induce inflammation and redness, but tretinoin is way, way more likely to do so. And the kicker is that you don’t need to torture your face and turn it into a flaking, peeling beet to generate massive skin improvements.

You’re probably familiar with the advice doctors give patients trying to lose weight: It’s better, and more sustainable long-term, to lose a pound or two a week, rather than to drop 10 pounds in seven days via an extreme method. Not only are you more likely to gain the weight back after a crash diet, but the restriction process itself is miserable. Using topical vitamin A successfully is a lot like slow and steady weight loss. You may think that a potent prescription will deliver the quickest skin improvements, but the reality is often that such a super-strong ingredient can trigger long-lasting redness and irritation, plus major inflammation. Considering that skin inflammation is the condition you most want to avoid (since it destroys collagen and elastin), taking a heavy-handed approach here can backfire and reverse all the improvements you’re trying to make — plus all the good stuff you have going on already. Our dermatologist founder Dennis Gross, MD, says that red skin is a red flag. It doesn’t mean your product is working better; it means you’re shredding your skin’s moisture barrier.

Why retinol is the move

Just like long-term weight loss, successful outcomes from using retinol-based skincare require patience, diligence, and daily adherence. Retinol’s less concentrated formulation means you can apply it every day (once your skin adapts to the ingredient), as opposed to using it a couple of times a week. And we all know the best results come from daily practices (exercise, healthy eating, petting a dog), not scattershot ones.

• The skin performs best when it’s given a consistent daily regimen vs. using a product a few times per week.
• Stronger products do not mean better performance – activities that are too strong can damage the skin.
• Redness is a sign of inflammation. 

Retinol products we advocate

It’s not as though we can’t get our hands on a prescription for tretinoin (we do work for a dermatologist, after all), but that doesn’t matter — we’d still pick retinol over tretinoin any day of the week. That’s because when retinol products are formulated synergistically in concentrations to be used together (as in our Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic line), you can layer them to deliver the magic ingredient in practically every step of your nightly routine. You can’t say that about tretinoin. These are four of our faves:

If you’re an experienced retinol user: 

Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Perfectly Dosed Retinol Extra Strength 0.5%

Our latest skincare innovation is a nighttime treatment pad saturated with the exact amount of liquid retinol you need to improve your skin’s texture, tone, and more without irritating.

If you’re new to retinol: 

Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum

This gentle, buffered serum is the perfect baby step into regular retinol application. Apply before bed and wake up with a smoother, more even-looking complexion.

If you have mature skin: 

Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Intense Wrinkle Cream

Since older skin is typically on the drier side, this rich cream provides deep hydration, along with the retinol required to help plump and firm the face.

If your eyes are your issue: 

Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum

Not all retinol products are formulated for this specific, delicate area. However, our lightweight serum is safe to apply around the eyes and will help minimize the look of creepiness and crow’s feet.

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